INIDS2-1662
Premium Lipstick Formulations Achieving Uniform Coloration and Smooth Application through 3D Microstructural Analysis and Rheological Analysis
Topic
IDS2. Frontiers in Cosmetic Science and Technology (Sponsored by COSMAX)
When and Where
Sep 30, 2026
16:50 - 17:15
Room 102
Session Chairs
Mun Ho KIM
Presenter(s)
Min-Ho Kang (The Catholic university of Korea)
Co-Author(s)
Abstract
- This study develops a multi-modal evaluation and formulation design platform for premium lipsticks by analyzing their three-dimensional (3D) microstructure, thermal characteristics, and physical properties. Traditional evaluation methods reliance on subjective sensory testing and two-dimensional electron microscopy faces limitations, as sample preparation distorts oil-wax gel structures and fails to represent the actual 3D network. To overcome these constraints, freeze substitution techniques and Cryo-FIB-SEM serial sectioning were employed to achieve region-specific 3D microstructure visualization and structural parameter quantification such as porosity, connectivity, and oil distribution. In addition, region-specific thermal property analysis using Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) was conducted to systematically investigate the phase transition behavior and structural degradation mechanisms, such as sweating phenomenon, across different zones of the lipstick formulation. Macro-scale physical properties were quantified to establish an objective sensory metric. Friction coefficients were measured across sliding speeds using tribology to quantify application smoothness, while rheological measurements evaluated lip adhesion and spreadability. Atomic Force Microscopy (AFM) was utilized to assess surface roughness, correlating with application uniformity and wrinkle coverage. By integrating microstructural parameters, thermal properties, and mechanical indicators, a digital sensory prediction model was established to optimize wax-oil composition ratios and additive combinations. This integrated analytical framework minimizes application non-uniformity and enhances structural stability, offering a scientific strategy for designing premium matte lipsticks with superior application performance.
