INIDS2-1661
Manufacturable Exosomes: Milk-Derived Vesicles as a Cosmetic Soft Material
Topic
IDS2. Frontiers in Cosmetic Science and Technology (Sponsored by COSMAX)
When and Where
Sep 30, 2026
10:45 - 11:10
Room 102
Session Chairs
Jungmoo HEO
Presenter(s)
Sun Hwa Kim (Korea Institute of Science and Technology)
Co-Author(s)
Abstract
Exosomes have emerged as promising cosmetic soft materials, but their industrial viability depends on three manufacturing and engineering requirements: scalable sourcing, processing/storage stability, and demonstrated skin and hair efficacy. In this talk, I present bovine milk-derived exosomes as a scalable natural nanomaterial that addresses these criteria. Milk is an abundant agricultural material supported by an established supply chain and a history of human consumption, thus provides a scalable alternative to exosomes produced by mammalian cell culture. These isolated vesicles target key pathways of skin aging and pigmentation. In keratinocytes, they suppress ultraviolet-induced reactive oxygen species; in melanocytes, they regulate melanin synthesis to limit hyperpigmentation; and in dermal fibroblasts, they upregulate collagen production while inhibiting matrix metalloproteinases. This combines the functions of multiple conventional actives into a single ingredient. In addition, these vesicles stimulate dermal papilla cells to promote the telogen-to-anagen hair cycle transition. In murine models, they induce hair regrowth comparable to minoxidil without causing cutaneous irritation. Crucially for cosmetic formulation, biological activity is preserved through lyophilization. Freeze-dried exosomes withstand ambient distribution without a cold chain and remain compatible with powder-in-ampoule and two-part formats for point-of-use reconstitution. Overall, milk-derived exosomes combine scalable sourcing, biological activity, and formulation stability. Key remaining challenges include defining standardized potency assays, establishing quality attributes, and characterizing vesicle interactions with finished cosmetic formulations.
