INIDS2-1607
Influence of Hyaluronic Acid Molecular Weight on the Transdermal Transport of Liposomal Cargo
Topic
IDS2. Frontiers in Cosmetic Science and Technology (Sponsored by COSMAX)
When and Where
Sep 29, 2026
17:30 - 18:00
Room 102
Session Chairs
Chan-Jin KIM
Presenter(s)
hyuksang yoo (kangwon national university)
Co-Author(s)
Abstract
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a key active which plays the role of humectant in personal care products. However, the relationship between its molecular weight (MW) and skin penetration which relates to moisturizing and skin recovery effects remains a controversial issue. Thus, this study aims to resolve these discrepancies by evaluating the penetration efficiency and regenerative potential of liposomes encapsulated with varying MWs of HA. Liposomes were formulated with high-MW HA – HHA, medium-MW HA – MHA, low-MW HA – LHA) using sonication method, which resulted in a combined unilamelar and multilamellar structure with a good colloidal stability. By size exclusion chromatography, the encapsulation efficiency was confirmed to be higher than 50% for all three MW ranges of HA. The biological effects investigated in vitro with monolayer of keratinocytes and fibroblasts indicated that HHA-loaded liposomes induced the highest cell migration, and significant upregulation of structural biomarkers, including collagen and keratin, compared to the other MWs. Contrary to conventional assumptions that smaller molecules could penetrate better, HHA-loaded liposomes exhibited notably superior penetration through 3D reconstituted human epidermal (RHE) models compared to MHA- and LHA-loaded liposomes. This effective transdermal delivery greatly supported the recovery efficacy of photodamaged 3D RHE tissues, expressed by the markedly elevated expression of structural biomarkers, while productively suppressed pro-inflammatory mediators such as interleukin, COX-2, MMP and TNF-α. Our findings evidence the effectiveness of liposomal cargo in the enhancement of transdermal delivery, and HHA-loaded liposomes exhibited the deepest epidermal penetration among other ranges. Moreover, considering dual actions in structural restoration and inflammation modulation, HHA-loaded liposomes represent a potent candidate for advanced cosmetic formulations targeting photoprotective effects.
